can be fitted to either existing or new newel bases.
To use existing newel bases, these must be fixed centrally to the
string and the front face of the riser concerned (Figs 1 & 2).
Before removing existing newel bases, check that they are non-supporting
or do not form a structural part of the staircase design.
When using Fusion™ your existing newel bases must be a minimum
82mm x 82mm. If less, face/build up existing bases using suitable
These instructions are for a straight flight with return landing.
Fusion™ stairparts use pre-cut balusters, and all cut-off points
from the top of the baserail upwards. The system is designed to automatically
compensate for any slight inaccuracies in cutting off the existing
Before newel bases can be set to the correct height the baserail must
installed. To do this, lay the baserail on the stair nosings and resting
the inside faces of the newel bases, mark and cut accordingly taking
ensure a clean and accurate cut. Place the baserail on top of the
string, but at this stage, a temporary fix is all that is required
ie tacks on
unfinished or masking tape on finished rails (Fig. 3).
Bottom Newel Base
From the line representing the top edge of the baserail mark a line
through the center point of the newel base and where the two lines
measure up 175mm (Fig. 1).
Top Newel Base
The top newel base should be marked out in the same way as the bottom,
but the height should be set at 125mm (Fig. 2).
It is important that existing newel bases are cut off squarely so
that the newel
posts are perfectly vertical. Once the bases are cut, trial fit the
and check with a spirit level. The top of the bases can be sanded
required. This will reduce the height of the bases slightly but the
assemblies can compensate for this within the connectors. Once the
have been levelled they can be chamfered to provide a more pleasing
Newel Base Connectors
Newel base connectors (MMNCS/B) can now be fixed to the newel bases
using the stud and barrel nut supplied. From the top of the newel
base on the
centre line previously marked, measure down 125mm. Using a 20mm spade
bit, drill a hole to a depth of 20mm beyond the centre point of the
(Fig. 4). On the top of the newel base find the centre by drawing
lines from corner to corner. Using a 13mm spade bit drill to a depth
Note all drill operations should be straight and accurate. Assemble
base connector (MMNCS/B) to newel base (Fig. 5) by locating the barrel
and fully inserting the fixing stud. Place the newel base connector
fixing stud and tighten nuts using 19mm socket/box spanner making
that the connectors are positioned as illustrated (Fig. 6).
Note - in most cases when tightening the
base connector to the existing
bases, the retaining ring on the underside of the connector should
the newel base. However depending on the timber type it maybe necessary
disassemble the connector and chisel a clearance ring of approximately
wide by 5mm deep allowing the newel base connector to sit flush.
Cut the bottom newel post to a length of 525mm and drill a 25mm diameter
clearance hole at a depth of 25mm to the underside of the post to
allow it to
fit over the stud assembly. Fix post to the connector using screws
making sure the post is fully inserted. Fix the top post in the same
but do not cut the post to length at this stage.
Note – to mark the position of the
clearance hole in the newel post, place
newel into base connector, knock gently and then remove post.
Fit new newel bases central to the front faces of the staircase risers
that they are vertical and at the correct height (Figs 1 & 2).
Note – remember to add the thickness
of the baserail when marking the
intersection points as illustrated in (Fig. 3).
Fixing Connectors & Handrails
Fixing the handrails and connectors is best done by two people. To
the correct angles of connectors and lengths of handrail, you will
assemble two balusters. Fit the baluster brackets to the ends of the
balusters by inserting the screws supplied for a tight fit (Fig. 7).
Note – ensure the baluster brackets
are in line with each other by tightening
the screws with the baluster held on two blocks of timber (Fig. 8).
balusters are pre-cut to length and should not require any modifications.
The bottom connector (MMBCS/B) and top connector (MMTCS/B) are a
two-part assembly. Attach the newel post part of the connectors to
posts. Note – the top newel post connector slides over the top
newel post and
should not be permanently fixed at this stage. The handrail part of
connector should now be attached to the overlong handrail. Offer the
assembly to the newel post connectors and to check that the handrail
parallel to the baserail and at the correct height, position assembled
balusters to the underside of the handrail next to the bottom and
Adjust the height of the top connector by sliding up and down the
top post and
check the balusters are vertical using a spirit level. Mark the position
of the top
connector to the newel post using a pencil and with the overlong handrail
the side of the top connector mark and cut the handrail to the required
Fit the top post connector in place by setting to the previously marked
line and secure the newel post part of the connector using the screws
supplied. It is important that this connector is fixed so that it
is in line with the
bottom newel. Fix the handrail connectors to the ends of the handrail
fix this assembly to all newel post connectors checking that everything
vertical and parallel before securing all connector bolts, nuts and
are now ready to fix the first and last balusters. The last baluster
must be fixed
so that it is tight against the handrail connector so as to conform
regulations. Position the baluster between the handrail and baserail,
for vertical and mark the position of the baluster bracket to the
baserail with a
pencil. Remove the baluster and fix the baserail to the staircase
45mm No. 8 countersink screw. The screw fixing the baserail to the
string should be positioned so that it does not interfere with the
bracket fixing screws. Reposition the baluster and fix to the handrail
baserail using the screws supplied. Fix the bottom baluster and space
the gap between baluster and newel post is no greater than 99mm (Fig.
To space the remaining balusters evenly up the stairs measure the
between the spacing marks (notches on the side of the brackets) of
bottom and top balusters already installed (Fig.11) and divide by
Round the answer up to the next whole number and divide this whole
number back into your original measurement to give an exact spacing.
Example – 2159mm between bottom and top spacing marks divided
148.5mm = 14.45, rounded up to 15. 2159mm ÷ 15 = 143.9mm spacing
all remaining baluster brackets to balusters using the screws supplied
(Fig. 7) ensuring the
brackets are in line using the blocks of wood described previously
(Fig. 8). Mark the spacing
between balusters to the baserail either using a pencil and tape measure
or by marking and cutting
a piece of timber to the required length. Fix the assembled brackets
and balusters to the baserail
first making sure that on every 4th baluster you secret fix the baserail
to the staircase string using
45mm No. 8 countersink screws. The top baluster brackets can now be
fixed to the underside of
the handrail using a spirit level to check for vertical.
Note – if you have a particularly
short flight of stairs you may need to re-space the balusters to
provide a more pleasing effect, remembering at all times to space
them no more than 99mm apart.
Assembling Horizontal/Landing Balustrades
Using standard Fusion™ components you will require a minimum
120mm measured from the
centre of the staircase baserail to the centre of the landing baserail
for stairs with landings at 180º
to the stairs (Fig. 12).
Cut and mitre the landing baserail to size and place into position
on the landing. Do not fix to the
landing floor at this stage (Fig. 12). Fix the landing baluster brackets
to the landing balusters.
Place an off-cut of handrail loosely into the landing connector (MMLCS/B).
Position one assembled
landing baluster onto the baserail and place the handrail and connector
on top of this baluster and
to the side of the top newel to establish the required height of the
post. Mark and cut to suit.
Where the landing balustrade ends against the wall, mark the position
of the wall connector
(MMWCS/B) on the wall by placing an assembled landing baluster and
baluster connectors to offcuts
of baserail and handrail. Mark the position of the wall connector
(MMWCS/B) to the wall and
drill and plug to suit.
Note – before drilling and plugging
this fixed point check that the landing handrail will be parallel
using a spirit level, if the landing floor is slightly out, reposition
the wall connector (MMWCS/B) and
pack the underside of the landing baserail accordingly.
Place an off-cut of handrail to the landing connector (MMLCS/B)
and position on the top newel.
Push the landing handrail into the wall connector (MMWCS/B) and offer
the horizontal turn
(MMHTRS/B or MMHTLS/B) to where the two handrails meet to establish
lengths of cut. Mark
and cut the handrails to the required length. Reposition the landing
handrail to the wall connector
(MMWCS/B) and fix horizontal turn (MMHTRS/B or MMHTLS/B) to the other
end of this rail. Fix
the short return length of handrail onto the other leg of the horizontal
turn (MMHTRS/B or
MMHTLS/B) and the landing connector (MMLCS/B) to the other end of
this short return length of
handrail and position over the top newel post (Fig. 13).
Note – before screwing all connectors
to rails and top post, we recommend a final check for parallel.
Use a spirit level for the handrail and an assembled baluster/baluster
brackets between the rails.
To calculate the exact number of landing balusters either divide
the total landing length by 117mm,
which will give a gap of approximately 98mm, or alternatively you
may find it aesthetically more
pleasing to space the landing balusters so that they are in line with
the staircase balusters. Mark
the position of the baluster brackets to the baserail and secret fix
the baserail to the landing
floorboards using 45mm No. 8 countersink screws every 4th baluster.
Assemble all baluster brackets to the ends of the landing balusters
by inserting the relevant fixing
screw (63mm No. 8) into the underside of the brackets and tighten
(Fig. 7). Ensure that the
brackets are in line with each other as previously described for staircase
balusters using two
square blocks of timber (Fig. 8).
Fix all bottom baluster brackets to the baserail using 30mm No. 6
screws and finally secure the top
baluster brackets to the underside of the landing handrail using 30mm
No. 6 screws checking for
vertical with a spirit level.
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